The 10-minute keyboard guide
If you're new to custom mechanical keyboards, four things decide how your board looks, sounds and feels. Here's the short version.
1. Layout — how big is it?
The layout is the shape and key count. In CDkeys you'll see:
- 60% — compact, no arrows or F-row. Loved by minimalists.
- 65% — 60% + arrow keys and a small nav column. The sweet spot for most people.
- 75% — adds a function row on top.
- 75% + Knob — same as 75% with a volume knob in the corner.
- TKL (80%) — everything except the numpad.
Bigger = more keys but more desk space. Start with 65% or 75% if you're unsure.
2. Switches — how does typing feel?
Switches sit under every key and decide the feel and sound.
- Linear — smooth top to bottom. No bump. Great for gaming (Cherry Reds, Gateron Yellows, Alpacas).
- Tactile — a bump partway down so you feel each keypress (Holy Pandas, Boba U4T).
- Clicky — tactile + an audible click (Cherry Blues, Kailh Box Whites).
- Silent — dampened linears/tactiles for offices and late nights.
- Magnetic / HE — adjustable actuation for gaming (Gateron Magnetic Jade).
3. Keycaps — how does it look?
Keycaps are the plastic caps you actually touch. Two things matter:
- Material — PBT is textured and durable. ABS is smoother and gets shiny over time (GMK is doubleshot ABS).
- Profile — the shape. Cherry (low, sculpted) is the safe default. MT3 and SA are tall and sculpted. KAT/KAM are uniform and spherical.
Any keycap set fits any MX-style switch, so pick what looks best.
4. PCB — the brains
The PCB decides connectivity and features. Look for:
- Hot-swap — pop switches in and out without soldering. Almost always what you want.
- Wireless (BT / 2.4GHz) — if you don't want cables.
- QMK / VIA — remap every key in a web app. Standard on most enthusiast PCBs.
- RGB — per-key or underglow. Purely cosmetic.
The PCB has to match the case, so CDkeys filters compatible PCBs for you automatically.